Top Schlock
Fashion gets knocked off it's pedestal!
A friend of mine is in NY and one of the things on her list was attending the release of Matthew Williamson’s line for H&M. She Twittered about the line-up (expected) and how there was nothing even left on the mannequins for her to strip (my advice) but managed, against all odds, to get a pair of baby blue pants that she was considering returning (can you imagine the line-up for that, not to mention the scorn?). So, is it worth it? What is the point of even going to events like that, or the opening of Top Shop in NY, until the buzz dies down and it becomes another Urban Outfitters? Or H&M for that matter. After my visit last year to the Top Shop on Oxford street I am pretty sure that unless you are 25 or under (or are mutton trying to pass as lamb) there is not much point. I certainly wouldn’t be taking any style advice from someone who is barely legal to drink. Then today I read the most wonderfully acerbic article in the NY Times. Complete with Gang of Four lyrics this is the first mention of Top Shop that hasn’t been a ride on the bandwagon. Enjoy…
Critical Shopper – Topshop – Topshop in Manhattan – NYTimes.com.
Kings of Nerd City
‘Star Trek’ Fans Put Kirk’s Command Chair in Their Homes – NYTimes.com.
This article today in the NY Times made me feel like so much less of a dork. I do kind of wish I had that chair, I love a crazy console. I always wanted Lt. Uhura’s set-up though but that goes back to my life long dream of being a receptionist. Where was I?
Right. On a related Star Trek note, I noticed this yesterday on TNG (OK I am still a nerd).
LOOK AT HER NECKLACE! Yes, AND head jewelry but I think this could be worn today with much acclaim. I am checking ebay for it right now. Or maybe I could get some Trekkie to make me one.
Best Dressed
This kid is awesome. A top hat?
This is the creator of Mad Men’s son, Arlo. I can’t believe anyone at 8 has this much influence on his parents nevermind on GQ. If I had asked my parents for a top hat I am pretty sure the answer would not have been “here’s a cane to go with it”. Check out the slide show for what Arlo has to say about his fashion.
Fashion is Dead
He's not sleeping...
I am not one of those people who is anti fur. Nope. I understand it is a touchy subject so if you are squeamish or don’t think it’s cool then LOOK AWAY. Besides you probably can’t afford it anyway. I had at one point a collection of vintage fur pieces with the heads and feet on them plus my now infamous armadillo bag (made out of an armadillo) but I had to give most of them up for space considerations. Also, there’s not much opportunity for wearing a 6 headed mink muff around town and it makes it difficult to carry your groceries. They aren’t exactly taxidermy but they aren’t exactly fashion either. Unless you are Jean Paul Gaultier last spring with his coyote headpieces or Gareth Pugh in the same season with his rat stole (with rats made of mink – love it!). Most notably this season is Bruno Frisoni’s Dovima shoe from his “One is Too” collection, a taxidermy bird of paradise with a diamond studded head perched atop a 24 carat gold mesh shoe. What recession? Delightful! There are also some weirdo taxidermist/artists who are making jewelry out of little critters. Loved to Death is a company out of San Francisco with a large collection of taxidermy and related jewelry. I especially like the muskrat mandible earrings with gold plated teeth and the articulated raccoon foot brooch. Julia deVille from New Zealand has some exhibition pieces like a taxidermy mouse brooch with a sterling silver tail and emerald eyes (pictured above) or a skunk stole. All the animals these naturalists use are roadkill or leftovers from taxidermists or have died a natural death, which is not something JPG can say. Plus they are much cheaper to replace should somebody throw blood at you.
Luxury LTD.
Alexander McQueen exclusive to Matches UK. It is bespoken for!
Bespoke is a term being used to describe everything these days from cars to computers. The goal of the Savile Row Bespoke Association to “protect the mysterious art of bespoke tailoring” have included an attempted ruling that the word be restricted to their practice of entirely hand-made garments. They failed and it is now considered a general term for made-to-order or in many cases the definition seems to just be “to order”. It’s the new idea of luxury and is not particular to menswear. Par example, Quintessentially Bespoke in the UK is offering exclusive designer goods like Temperley along with concierge and chauffeur services. It’s not exactly bespoke but you do get a numbered certificate with your item. They have also partnered with London boutique Matches offering limited “editions” from Alexander McQueen to Les Chiffoniers including a one of one edition bracelet with a victorian diamond fox head by Annina Vogel. Exclusivity seems to be the only way to guarantee segregation from the general public now that luxury items have become so accessible . As long as they don’t try to advertise it as Haute Couture. Karl would have a fit!
Hussein Chalayan
Speed racer! Finale from Inertia, Spring 2009.
Hussein Chalayan is one of my fashion heroes and always leaves me astonished, often with my jaw dropping. With a design retrospective from Jan 22 until May 17 at the London Design Museum his extensive body of amazing work is available for viewing in person. Besides having won the British Fashion Designer of the year twice, he is a also a film maker (employing British actress Tilda Swinton as a scientist in 2005′s Absent Presence) and an artist, showing around the world at such prestigious events as the Venice Biennale, and is currently the Creative Director of Sport Fashion for PUMA. At the museum you are greeted by his most current spring 2009 show, Inertia, with dresses made out of foam to look like they are going super fast, displayed on mannequins in a wind tunnel. Pieces from his fall 2000 show, Afterwords, the furniture as fashion that made me first take notice of him, all the way through to his more recent collections such as fall 2007′s Airborne, with beautiful LED screen dresses and signature remote control pieces, will be represented in the show. One of the most memorable seasons remains his spring 2007 show, One Hundred and Eleven, where the history of fashion is explored through dresses that change from a long 1900′s inspired gown to a flapper dress at the touch of a button, as well as other remote control creations like the dress that disappears entirely into the model’s hat, which you need to see in action to appreciate (make sure you watch the full screen version). And don’t worry, these special garments are one offs so the ready to wear won’t disappear while you are having your brunch.
Street Cred
Grandma Style
I have long been addicted to street fashion blogs so I when I was packing for my trip to Berlin this week, I began using them as a means to gauge the fashion level of the Germans and help me decide what to bring. Here’s the thing, all street fashion sites are definitely not created equal. Of course the photographers have to actually know something about style or they end up more spectacle than aspiration. Sometimes they seem very amateurish such as one post from Munich where the guy doesn’t even know he is taking a photo of Marc Jacobs! (He is wearing a kilt so there’s your first clue. The other is IT’S MARC JACOBS. Don’t you ever pick up a magazine?). Then there is just the weird ones which don’t seem even related to fashion like Advanced Style, a blog about the elderly (gives the direction “older posts” a new meaning). I suppose they all can’t be the Sartorialist or Garance Doré. If the site is up to date though you can use it to check the weather conditions in the city you are travelling to, and with a page for practically every city in the world you can be prepared for anything. Is it raining in Rio? Has it snowed yet in Stockholm? Have they gotten rid of all that muck in Montreal? After checking out Stil in Berlin (which has an extensive list of other site from around the world) and Street Clash I will leave the puffy coat at home and pack the leather. It is Germany after all.
